Pigeon Molting

Feathers have a certain lifespan; as they mature, the blood vessels that penetrate the pulp close, and the feathers stop receiving nourishment; consequently, they die. This causes them to fall out at certain intervals and be replaced by new ones. The periodic change of feathers is called molting.

It is a physiological process that occurs throughout the year. The way this process unfolds indicates the balance between the functions of all organs and systems and demonstrates the body's regenerative potential and its overall state of health.

Generally speaking, the shedding of old feathers and the growth of new ones happens throughout the year, and this is normal.

A perfect and complete molt indicates that pigeons are 100% healthy, even after a very difficult competitive season. If a pigeon is 100% healthy, it means it will successfully endure the low temperatures of the long and harsh winter months. However, we know there have been and still are pigeons that completed an exceptional season even if they molted poorly, losing 2-3 feathers. This is, of course, the exception that proves the rule. Poorly molted primary or secondary feathers are generally the result of an exhausting competitive season. In general, a pigeon that shows health problems during molting will not have a good competitive season. The same applies to breeders. A pigeon whose molting is completed on time successfully tolerates periods of high humidity (rain, fog) as well as very cold periods during winter. (Many of us are foolish enough to breed late hatchlings out of desperation, completely disregarding how much this delays the molting of their own pigeons). It is often said that a pigeon's resistance to different weather variations is mainly determined by its bloodline. In fact, it is more a matter of whether the molt is perfect or not. In September, molting reaches its most advanced stage. During this renewal period, pigeons must acquire new plumage that should be silky, fine, and shiny. This allows them to fly more easily and provides greater resistance against rain and fog.

In lofts where nutrition is balanced, where not too many squabs are raised, and where cleanliness is maintained, the changes occur normally, regularly, and without problems. Fanciers who neglect molting will never get very far in the pigeon sport. Let's not forget that excellent health is the key to a harmonious molt. Everything depends on the state of health. Avoid excessive breeding and flying. Make sure you provide them with adequate food, and you will not encounter problems.

It is clear that the manager's knowledge plays an important role. It is the breeder's duty to ensure that the birds benefit from a quiet environment as possible, free from noise, from mid-August, so that the molting process can be completed in the best conditions. The breeder's priority is to prepare his pigeons for the next season. For this reason, we must not neglect any aspect at the end of the molting period.

During molting, when the plumage has not renewed as it should have, whether a mistake was made or not, the breeder can administer a "herbal drink" to the pigeons that stimulates molting. This "tea" is also a good blood detoxifier. Many breeders administer it in September and October.

Using a series of plants, you can prepare a tea to detoxify the blood.

For the formation of good quality plumage, the daily ration will be supplemented with products containing the 3 essential amino acids for feather formation: methionine, cystine, and lysine. The abnormal feather change hides certain deficiencies and harms the pigeon's performance in both flight and reproduction. The breeder can influence molting through certain measures. Thus, he must stop breeding when the 5th primary flight feather falls. This ensures the completion of molting by the end of the year, while also creating the conditions for molting to start at the normal time next year. Pigeon squabs begin to molt at 6-7 weeks of age, and their molting lasts 5-6 months. Late squabs do not molt in the year they hatch. In the case of late hatches, the situation is a bit different. Those hatched in August, September only shed a few feathers in their birth year, with molting continuing the following year. Sometimes, in milder winters, molting will not stop and will continue progressively.

Late hatches after September will not molt in their birth year, but only the following year when they will shed two feathers at a time: the first and sixth, the second and seventh, etc. The quality of the new plumage, especially the primary feathers, reflects the health and physical condition of the birds.

New, shiny, silky feathers of a livelier color indicate very good vitality, while dull, dry, rough feathers draw attention to the precarious health of the pigeons, possible fatigue, exhaustion of the body during competitions, unbalanced nutrition, lack of minerals, vitamins, etc. Sometimes these feathers indicate the existence of a disease process in the past or perhaps even in the present. In certain cases, feathers are found that have traces of blood in the calamus area (so-called blood feathers); this demonstrates that the feather did not manage to detach from the follicle.

The isolated presence of such feathers or feathers with other defects can be considered a molting accident. However, if various defects appear in large numbers and in several pigeons in the flock, this suggests poorly balanced nutrition, poor in certain absolutely indispensable nutrients, or the existence of a microbial or parasitic infection.

The moment of weakness of a bird can be identified based on abnormally molted flight feathers. The pigeon's wing is like a business card, allowing us to accurately identify when the bird had problems. One thing is certain: two perfectly healthy pigeons, kept in the same loft and under the same conditions, can molt differently!!!

There are many factors that accelerate or slow down molting. For example, if the lofts are too warm, or if the fancier uses artificial light to extend the day, pigeons will molt much faster. Also, any illness visibly slows down molting. A pigeon constantly competing in difficult races, races that exceed its physical capabilities, cannot recover adequately for a normal molt, and the consequences will be seen in the next season. If it is a valuable pigeon, it is recommended to give it a one-year rest (season), a rest that can be total or partial – only easy races. The molting of down feathers, just like the actual feathers, occurs every year. The difference is that their replacement is slow, starting from autumn until the following spring. Laying eggs stops the molting of down feathers. This fact should be kept in mind, and therefore, pairing should not start too early in spring, before the molting of down feathers is complete. The progression of molting for each feather category, broadly speaking, at the same times shows that follicles close, then reopen year after year, somewhat according to a program. However, cases deviating from this rule should also be noted. If a feather is accidentally plucked, it will be immediately replaced with another; thus, the follicle becomes active and grows another feather in its place.

The course of molting is influenced by hormones secreted by certain endocrine glands as well as by substances with endocrine action. These intervene in regulating molting, being able to reduce or even stop it.

For instance, during incubation, a period of sexual rest, molting proceeds at its usual pace. However, in the last days of incubation, as well as in the first days after the squabs hatch—when crop milk secretion begins—under the influence of prolactin—molting ceases. Winter feeding should not begin until the last primary flight feather has grown to its normal length. Attention: transition gradually from one diet to another. The most important aspect is the quality of the food offered to pigeons. Good nutrition will control most pigeon diseases.

Good quality grains are grains with a very low moisture content.

Grains with high humidity and/or that are dirty, dusty, and unclean are much more susceptible to microbes, fungi, bacteria, and 7 toxins than clean and dry grains. Most breeders now understand that feed quality significantly affects performance and choose to buy "fresh products" free of molds, fungi, and toxins. The truth is that germs on/in grains will affect the birds' performance during breeding, molting, and also during flight. The feed used for pigeons must be clean and of the best quality.

During molting, pigeons require a combination of grains containing more protein, as they need a different balance of amino acids during this period. The grain mixture needs at least six (or more) different types of grains in the mix to achieve the best level of protein and essential amino acids. The best quality protein level is rarely met, and lysine (a very important amino acid for pigeons) is hard to find in mixtures with fewer than 4 types of grains. The quality of the mixture's protein level can be improved by adding protein/amino acid supplements before or during feeding.

Obviously, grains are a great source of energy, protein, and fiber, but they are very poor in several important elements: minerals, trace elements, and vitamins.

All grains have a low content of calcium (0.01 – 0.20%) and sodium (20-600ppm). Phosphorus, copper, zinc, manganese, selenium – these are also reduced in some grains. Vitamin concentrations in seeds are very variable. Seeds do not contain vitamin A (corn contains carotenoids), or vitamin D. Vitamin E and vitamin K levels are reduced or even undetectable. Among the B vitamins, riboflavin, niacin, and pantothenic acid are often in small amounts, and even vitamin B12 is not present. This means that the vitamins, minerals, and trace elements missing from grains must be provided to pigeons in one form or another.

Vitamins B6, B9, B12 are essential in this process, and not many supplements have these 3 vitamins together in the same formula. For the vast majority of pigeon fanciers, pigeons are kept indoors during this period of the year, and even free-ranging pigeons lack greenery.

Greens (vegetables and leafy greens) should be administered permanently as they are easily digestible and rich in vitamins. All greens are good, but they should be young and chopped finely, whether it's lettuce, spinach, cabbage, clover, alfalfa, dandelion, onion and garlic leaves, etc. Carrots should be given grated or finely chopped.

Pigeons like them a lot if they get used to them, and they also provide vitamins. Sprouted wheat is a very important stimulator of the vital activity of the body due to its rich content of B vitamin complex and many other vitamins, as well as various ferments (enzymes). Germination represents a series of processes in which proteins, fats, and starch are broken down into simpler forms, which can be used by the growing plant. In a multitude of processes, all the vitamins necessary for the growing plant are synthesized in the correct proportion and can be absorbed by the plant to be used as a form of energy.

Proteins are also broken down into amino acids that can be absorbed by the plant or by the animal consuming the germinated seed. Such a LIVING core is an excellent addition to pigeon feed. Other types of seeds can also be used for germination, but they must be a type of grain consumed by pigeons. Otherwise, they are useless. They must germinate quickly. The faster they germinate, the less they mold. That is why wheat is suitable for this purpose because it germinates quickly at room temperature. (Take a quantity of wheat, put it in a pot with water and wash it, then let the useless materials rise to the surface, which will be discarded. After the floating materials have been removed, the wheat is left to soak for approximately 10-12 hours. Any material that has risen in the meantime is removed. The remaining wheat is drained. After the water has been drained, the grains are placed in a covered container, where they are left to germinate for 24-36 hours, after which they can be served to the pigeons.) Easily assimilated minerals by the body, contained in 100 grams of wheat germ: phosphorus (1050 mg%), magnesium (342 mg%), calcium (71 mg%).

Vitamins: A, B, D, E, K.

Attention: do not serve too often and do not replace the usual grain rations!

Also, grit must be administered daily to pigeons, playing an important role in food digestion. Moreover, clay is an antiseptic, and like all other natural antiseptics (especially aromatic essences), it destroys microbes without destroying body cells, actually protecting them. The bacterial properties of clay are particularly well demonstrated in numerous infectious states: respiratory affections and intestinal parasitoses. Clay contains: silicon-49.10%, alumina-14.61%, iron oxide-5.65%, magnesium-4.24%, alkaline oxides-3.08%, humidity (water)-7.40%. Clay remains a part of nature that has not yet had its last word.

There are a few small clues we can gather by observing pigeons bathing: Only healthy pigeons bathe spontaneously, and when an oily film remains on the water's surface after bathing and white powder in the water, we are certain that the pigeons are not only healthy but also in good shape. Pigeons need regular baths, but never let them bathe in the evening. They will enter the night wet since they will not move, and this will jeopardize their health.

Sometimes, pigeons are so eager to take a bath that they try to enter the drinker, flapping their wings as if they had already entered the water.

The need for a bath is related to the weather. The behavior of pigeons, in this regard, seems to be contrary to our behavior.

We crave a cold bath when temperatures are high, pigeons wish to bathe, especially, during rainy weather or when humidity is high, regardless of ambient temperature. It is necessary to keep the pigeon loft clean, it is recommended to do it daily or every few days, but from experience, it is also acceptable to clean once a week, and the resulting dust should be vacuumed, not just swept.

Care must be taken to ensure the shelter is well-ventilated, but not too much, be careful not to have a draft, it is advisable to ventilate only on one side.

Author: Sava Radu Gruescu

source: www.columbofil.com